

“Right now, we feel that there is a focus on the foundational wardrobe and pieces that are essential but also free, emotional, and covetable,” Joyce Lee, Madewell’s senior vice president of design, shared with me in an email. And, rather than wiping the slate clean or attempting to reinvent the wheel, the fashion industry appears to be revisiting its own fundamentals to pave the way toward something new.

There’s a scene from the 2004 film Uptown Girls where a young Dakota Fanning quotes dancer Mikhail Baryshnikov: “Fundamentals are the building blocks of fun.” It may not have been the most pivotal moment of the movie, but it does ring true for many things. It became clear that the house is in its post-Alessandro Michele era. Even Gucci-the brand known for its more-is-more designs-offered what felt like a breath of fresh air when models walked down the runway in brown blazers, oxford shirts, and loose-fitting jeans for fall/winter 2023. But then there’s the other end of the spectrum, where wardrobe basics and minimalism reign supreme. And yes, maximalism may always be in the trend rotation. Yes, the runways are dotted with spectacles and performances worthy of endless social media posts.

Apparently, so is the rest of the fashion world. Courtesy of Madewell, Banana Republc and Kate Spade | Collage by Leah Romero
